A brushing guide by coat type
Brushing properly at home is worth more than shortening the gap between appointments, and it is free. Most people are using the wrong tool, or the right tool the wrong way.
The mistake almost everyone makes
Brushing the top of the coat only. It looks brushed, feels brushed, and the mat is forming underneath against the skin. This is why dogs arrive matted with owners who genuinely brush them daily.
The fix is line brushing: part the coat down to the skin with one hand, brush the exposed layer from the skin outward, then move the part up an inch and repeat. It is slower and it is the only method that actually works on a long or curly coat.
Check your work with a comb, not the brush. If a metal comb passes cleanly from skin to tip, that section is done. If it snags, the brush missed it.
By coat type
Curly and wool - poodles, doodles, Bichons
Tools: slicker brush plus a metal greyhound comb.
How often: every day or two, genuinely.
Line brush, then comb through to check. These coats mat faster than any other and the mats
form at the skin where you cannot see them.
Long silky - Shih Tzu, Maltese, Yorkie, Havanese
Tools: pin brush plus a metal comb.
How often: daily on a long coat, every few days if kept short.
Behind the ears and under the collar go first. Check those two spots even when you skip
everything else.
Double coats - Golden, Husky, Pyrenees, Bernese, Aussie
Tools: undercoat rake plus a slicker.
How often: weekly, daily when they are blowing coat.
The rake does the work. You are pulling out dead undercoat, not styling the top coat.
Do not shave a double coat to manage shedding; it does not cool them down and
it can grow back patchy.
Short smooth - Lab, Beagle, Boxer, Pit Bull, Vizsla
Tools: rubber curry brush or a grooming mitt.
How often: weekly is plenty.
Circular motions. It lifts dead hair and it doubles as a massage, so most of these dogs
actively enjoy it.
Wire - Schnauzer, terriers, Airedale
Tools: slicker plus comb, and a stripping knife if you are maintaining
texture.
How often: two or three times a week.
The furnishings on the legs and beard mat far faster than the body coat.
Four rules that apply to everything
- Never brush a dry, dirty coat hard. It breaks the hair. A light mist of water or a leave-in spray helps.
- Never bathe a matted dog. Water tightens mats. Brush out first, always.
- Short and frequent beats long and rare. Five minutes daily beats an hour on Sunday, both for the coat and for your dog's opinion of brushing.
- Finish on a good note. Stop before they get fed up, not after.
If you would rather not do this bit yourself, that is what I am here for. Book an appointment.
Questions
Is a Furminator good?
For double coats, used gently and occasionally, yes. Used hard or often it cuts the coat rather than removing loose hair. It is not for curly or silky coats at all.
What is the single best tool to own?
A metal greyhound comb, for almost any coat. Not because you brush with it, but because it tells you the truth about whether the brushing worked.
My dog hates being brushed.
Usually because it has hurt before. Go back to very short sessions on an easy area, stop while it is still fine, and build up. Feeding during brushing helps more than people expect.